I have been happily eating my way through Portland. Breakfast has been high on my list, but there have been a couple of notable exceptions. To sum up my culinary delights.
On the first day back, I went to Toast (SE Steele and 52nd) for the pork belly. Oh, dear Lord, it is heaven in a slice of pork. This is nothing that could be described as "bacon". It makes me look back with even greater fondness on the Iron Chef Pork Belly Battle. I think I would have enjoyed that so much more if I had had some pork belly. Anyway, it's a thick-ol slice of, well, pork belly. Imagine a strip of pork roast surrounded on two sides by a strip of warm fat. Sounds gross if you aren't fond of things like homemade cracklins. If, however, you find fried chicken skin to be the best thing on the planet, well then, this meat is for you. As you bite into a piece, the warm grease explodes through your mouth with such an intense pork flavor, everything else on the plate pales in comparison. Mind you, the rest of the plate is tasty too. Comes with a couple of fried eggs and a homemade potato rosti (think hashbrown, but better), loving sprinkled with chopped, fresh parsley and served over a small puddle of balsamic reduction. Oh, with a bloody mary on the side that comes with homemade pickles (you know, cauliflower, okra). If you are, or are ever, in Portland: GO TO TOAST.
It started snowing, so then I opted for a walk to the Screen Door for some Saturday morning brunch. Screen Door (24th and E. Burnside) has the best biscuits and gravy in town. However, I opted for the special fried chicken cathead biscuit. The biscuit (as big as a cat's head) is split and topped with a spicy fried chicken breast, topped with sausage gravy, and served with potatoes or grits. I went grits. But I was sharing, so we also had a hash that was good -- there was horseradish in it -- and a smoked salmon omelet. Yum.
Once the snow cleared, it was off to Genie's (SE 11th and Division) for the eggs benedict. I've tried about all the benedicts in town, and Genie's wins. The Hollandaise tastes like butter. Seriously. It is velvety smooth, with a subtle lemon twist and the aforementioned butter. Ahhh. I can hear my arteries clogging from here. I forgot about the West Coast's penchant for undercooking eggs, so there were a couple of runny spots in the white of my eggs, but I decided to deal. I hadn't specified that I wanted runny yolks, but solid whites to the waiter. The potatoes are kinda whatever, and I got the end of a basket so they were all small and extra crispy, but it didn't matter. It was all about the muffin, locally made Canadian bacon, egg, and that sauce.
There was also a trip to Cricket Cafe at SE 32nd and Belmont. I didn't get the cricket omelet, that is hangover or trucker fare (a four-egg omelet with bacon, tomato, onion, cheese and the hashbrowns on the INSIDE, all covered with sausage gravy). I did have a delish sausage burrito, though. Nice interplay of eggs, sausage, and black beans. Good homemade salsa on top. Hashbrowns were a little greasy, but you can't always have it all.
This morning, after explaing to my dear friend CK that there is a Kettleman Bagels on this side of town -- just a few blocks from her house at SE 11th and Sherman, I had the best bagel in Portland. It might be the best bagel I've ever eaten. Now, I haven't been to New York on a bagel hunt, so I won't say that it's the best ever. But in Portland, they pass off anything round as a bagel, even if it's just floofy white bread, so these bagels really hit the spot. I have long said that Brueggar's sets the standard for all bagels: anything less than Brueggar's is NOT a bagel. Kettleman shows up Brueggar's. (The owner learned the trade in NYC, so don't fear, these are NYC bagels.) The only thing left to say is that in my Cali town, it's possible to go to a bagel shop that does not serve veggie, onion, OR herb cream cheese. I think that's against the bagel laws (although I haven't checked). So a crunchy on the outside, chewey in the middle everything bagel smeared with green onion cream cheese that hasn't had the life whipped out of it was very, very welcome.
Of course, I've been inhaling Stumptown coffee like it was going out of style, as well as any sort of micro IPA I can get my hands on. HUB (Hopworks Urban Brewery at SE 28th and Powell) definitely is good beer. Look for it. It packs a whallop, though, so beware.
Also on the list were the fish 'n chips at the Horsebrass (at SE 47th and Belmont). Everyone in there was smoking like it was going out of style (probably because as of January 1st, it will be out of style -- and against the law) which is a downer. I don't believe that anyone who say that the smoke is "part of the charm" of the Horsebrass is telling the truth; that lie gets passed around just to make you feel better for going. No, the smokers might appreciate the chance to smoke, but no one patronizes the establishment just so they can leave reeking like an old-timer at the Eagles Lodge. They go for the fish 'n chips. Solid cod, battered and fried served over homemade chips. Comes with slaw or a salad for a $1 more. And not so many chips, either. It's about the fish and the salad, with the chips just to make you feel good, but leaden with grease. Solid ranch (with the salad, of course -- but enough left over for the chips), too. Of course, sometimes the fry cook is off. It was pretty packed, so my fish were slightly overdone; but poorly cooked fish at the Horsebrass is well-cooked anywhere else. The fish was still hot and juicy, just a tad tough.
Tonight, though. Oh tonight. Going to Yoko's (SE 28th and Gladstone). Taka's tuna and the Poki roll. I might have to forgo my usual plain tuna roll in light of all that tuna. Tuna tuna tuna. Mmmmm.... Tuna. Yoko's is my favoritest sushi restaurant, ever. I do love some Sushi Blue in Raleigh, free birthay sushi is always welcome, and Mio Sushi is to raw fish what Brueggar's is to bagels, but nothing beats Yoko's. I love the tiny room with it's eclectic decor. I love the food. I love that you can wait at the bar next door and would call over the bar when your table was ready, but now they just call your cell phone.
And after the tuna feast of last night, I just want to say, "Yum". CK and I skipped the plain tuna roll for a spicy tuna roll, and added to the feast with some veggie tempura. (There is very little in this world that I do NOT like deep-fried.) We were sated, but not stuffed. It was about perfect. And Yoko's was playing Barry White on the stereo. Oh, my God. CK and I made some sweet raw tuna love at the sushi bar. Between the unfiltered saki, the interplay of tuna, rice, avocado, green onion, and soy, the hot, crispy fried veggies, and the sultry music, we were in heaven. And having considered it all, I think that while the pork belly delivers an immediate and gratifying taste sensation, tuna does that, but more. The pork will slow you down and put you to sleep; the tuna wakes up your brain and makes you feel alive.
For my last feat, I'll be doing a little happy hour at the Nite Lite tonight. (I think it'll still be happy hour.) It's been a favorite haunt of mine, and it'll be very comfortable to go back and hang there for an hour or so before heading out to a quality house party.
Happy New Years everyone!
Crazy Days
8 years ago