What Did I Get For My Troubes? A Case of the Clams

I had to go to Trader Joe's, and in this town, that means a trip to Monterey. Since it was a lovely afternoon, I decided I might as well do what normal adults do and have dinner as well. This town doesn't have a slew of dining options, so going to Monterey is my big chance for dinner-time treats.

I did a cursory online search and decided I'd hit up the Fisherman's Wharf for some seafood. What the hey? I grew up in tourist trap, I know what's what. And I also know that you can find some good chowdah in a tourist trap.

So I trip-trapped, trip-trapped across the bridge to see what goodies I could find. All the restaurants along the wharf (picture Kennebunk Port -- complete with Saxony Imports -- but jammed onto one pier) had out samples of their chowder. "Yee-haw!" I thought to myself, "Now I'll know which chowder is good."

The answer is none of them.

I don't know what it is about the West Coast, but you can not find good chowder out here. Maybe I haven't found that one perfect place yet, but I've been to Seattle, Seaside and Cannon Beach and Pacific City and Portland, Oregon, and now California, and the chowder is crap.

Let me explain. The best chowder in the word is found at a place called Chowderheads in Scarborough, Maine. It's a small place, tucked off the side of a strip mall along Route 1. It's a random place to find such good chowder, but good it is. I guess it's technically a fish chowder, but it's creamy and succulent with a rich, seafood flavor with a colorful, and tasty, dash of paprika across the top. I've also had good, brothy, creamy chowder at the Clam Shack in Kennebunk -- but I haven't been there since the Jacques let it go. In short, chowder should be milky -- creamy, not thick and starchy. It should not taste like flour and potato starch. It should taste like seafood, cream, fresh potatoes, and pepper. It should not be thick. It should be a soup, not a gravy.

The chowders at the Fisherman's Wharf were all starch. The first one tasted like a bag of flour. Ugh. The second one tasted like a bag of flour mixed with clam broth. (Very clammy, although I didn't see any clams.) The third one (which passed for edible) was still thick, but there was a hint of cream and some visible clam chunks. It was alright. Alright in a sort of a limited way for an off night.

I guess I just have to make my own. I make a mean clam chowder. And I've got to get back to Scarborough. Chowderheads is closed on Sundays so I missed it the last time I was in town.